Lau Kin-Wai: Decline of Chinese Cuisine Since the 1950s

In a departure from coverage of Asian Internet and media, Thomas Crampton interviews Hong Kong restaurateur Lau Kin-Wai, who laments the decline of Chinese cuisine since the 1950s. Beijing Gourmand looks forward to visiting one of Lau's "private kitchens" the next time he's in Hong Kong, and wishes more restaurants used traditional cooking methods. Despite his nostalgia for traditional cooking, Lau's tone seems to reveal that even he realizes these cooking methods are not practical for use in most modern restaurants where customers demand speed and perceived value for money. Beijing Gourmand may not have the palate of a gourmet, but in a recent trip to South Silk Road (茶马古道餐厅) he noticed that the chef's in the open kitchen were using such ingredients as granulated chicken bouillion (鸡精调味料） and Skippy peanut butter (花生酱) and the resulting dishes were some of the best southwestern Chinese cuisine BG has ever tasted.

Does anyone know of any "private kitchens" in Beijing (other than the Private Kitchen 44)?